This beautiful Arts and Crafts necklace, Object 92/1367: Charles R. Ashbee Necklace and Pendant from the Powerhouse Collection, was designed by Charles Robert Ashbee in 1900 and stands out not just for its craftsmanship but also for the values it represents. Collection Research Volunteer Sally explored the story behind this remarkable object, uncovering the layers of design, philosophy, and history it holds.
Ashbee—architect, designer, and a leading figure of the Arts and Crafts Movement—founded the Guild of Handicraft in London’s East End in 1888. His goal was both social and artistic: to revive traditional craft skills and offer meaningful, rewarding work in a time when industrial mass production was replacing human craftsmanship. Inspired by the ideas of John Ruskin and William Morris, Ashbee believed in the dignity of handcraft and the moral value of well-made, beautiful objects.
While Arts and Crafts jewellery typically avoided cut gemstones, favoring symbolism and design over sparkle, this necklace is an exception. It features a delicate gold filigree chain set with twelve pale aquamarines, leading to a stunning enamelled pendant in iridescent blues, greens, purples and yellows. Three briolette aquamarines dangle from the pendant, adding movement and light. The necklace is housed in its original heart-shaped presentation box—an exquisite detail in itself.
Produced by the Guild of Handicraft at Essex House, this necklace embodies the medieval-inspired aesthetic of Ashbee’s jewellery. Though it evokes the flowing lines of Art Nouveau, Ashbee distanced his work from that movement, favoring the grounded ideals of craft, community, and simplicity.
Thank you to Collection Research Volunteer Sally for her thoughtful research into this elegant and meaningful piece of jewelry history.
Research and story by volunteer Sally. Blogpost by Karen Griffiths, (Volunteers Program Officer)