Collection research volunteer Joanna researched this beautiful brooch in the Powerhouse Collection, Object No. 92/1370, revealing a fascinating story of design, symbolism, and royal connections. This exquisite piece is a prime example of Art Nouveau jewellery, a style known for its organic lines, ethereal beauty, and nature-inspired motifs. Created by the celebrated London-based jewellers Child & Child, the brooch displays the distinctive hallmarks of their artistry—vivid shades of green, turquoise, and blue enamel, and intricate motifs such as wings, leaves, feathers, hearts, and butterflies.
The maker’s mark, a blooming sunflower flanked by two Cs, identifies this piece as the work of Child & Child. Their style closely mirrored the visual language of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood, a group of artists who embraced spiritual symbolism and vivid colours. The bright, jewel-like tones and dreamy, otherworldly aesthetic of this brooch reflect that influence. Wings—frequently used in Child & Child designs—may have carried deeper meaning, inspired by the Pre-Raphaelites’ spiritual themes and otherworldly vision.
Founded in the late 19th century, Child & Child enjoyed considerable prestige, counting among their patrons Queen Victoria, King Edward VII, and King George V. The brooch may well have been a royal gift—possibly from Queen Victoria herself to her daughter, Princess Helena.
Princess Helena (1846–1923), also known as Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein after her marriage in 1866, was the third daughter of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. A pioneering advocate for women’s rights, Helena played an important role in charitable work throughout her life. She established a holiday home for disadvantaged London children and worked with the Red Cross, contributing to voluntary efforts during World War I. Perhaps most notably, she was the founding President of the School of Art Needlework—later the Royal School of Needlework—in 1872, creating vital employment opportunities for women, a mission that continues to this day.
With its royal lineage, rich design heritage, and connection to significant historical figures, this brooch is not only a masterpiece of jewellery but also a cultural object of enduring relevance.
Thank you, Joanna, for your valuable research in bringing this gorgeous object to life.
Research and story by volunteer Joanna. Blogpost by Karen Griffiths, (Volunteers Program Officer)