Our Collections Research volunteer Clare has uncovered an interesting story behind the Dinosaur jacket by Issey Miyake Inc. (Object No. 94/276/1), from the Powerhouse collection. This jacket is a striking example of Miyake’s innovative approach to fashion.
Born in Hiroshima in 1938, Miyake was deeply influenced by Japan’s post-boom economy and the fusion of American pop culture with Japan’s rapidly advancing consumer technologies. Along with other designers like Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, Miyake helped create what is now known as the Japanese aesthetic in global fashion—blending traditional art with modern design principles.
Miyake’s breakthrough in the 1990s came with his pioneering work in pleating. He introduced a heat press technique that allowed pleats to be permanently set into fabric, creating sculptural garments that held their shape even after washing. His Pleats Please collection, launched in 1993, involved designing oversized garments that were pleated before being sewn together, resulting in pieces that could move dynamically with the wearer. This process transformed pleating from a traditional decorative element into a groundbreaking technology that could change the structure and flow of a garment.
The Dinosaur jacket is a perfect example of Miyake’s fusion of art and technology. The jacket combines sculptural fabric manipulation with a futuristic design, turning everyday materials into dynamic, movable forms. It goes beyond mere fashion, representing Miyake’s belief that clothing should not just be worn, but experienced—highlighting movement and transformation. His work has inspired, pushing the boundaries of what fashion can be by marrying technology, art, and culture in ways few other designers have matched.
A huge thank you to Clare for her incredible research and dedication to uncovering this fascinating story.
Research and story by volunteer Clare. Blogpost by Karen Griffiths, (Volunteers Program Officer)