One of the most intriguing pieces in our collection is Object No. 506: a textile length decorated with beetle wings, originating from India. This stunning example of intricate craftsmanship highlights an age old tradition that spans centuries and cultures, and thanks to the research of our Collections Research volunteer, Jun, we can now share its rich history with you.
Beetle-wing embroidery dates back to before British colonial rule and was practiced throughout East and South-East Asia, particularly in countries like India, Thailand, China, and Japan. The origins of these designs are believed to have begun in India, where the luminous wings of green-toned beetles were used to decorate the clothing of high-status individuals in the Mughal courts. The specific beetles used were from the family Buprestidae, whose elytra, or wings, are naturally iridescent due to their unique microscopic structure.
By the late 19th century, a booming market for exotic textiles emerged across England, America, and Australia, driven by a growing demand for decorative, luxurious fabrics. In response to this demand, the East India Company began importing beetle-wing textiles, like the one featured in the Powerhouse collection, from India. This also led to the expansion of embroidery production in India, particularly in cities like Chennai and Hyderabad, which became major centers of textile manufacturing.
The technique involved embroidering beetle wings onto translucent netting, which allowed the designs to be easily attached or removed from garments. White muslin, a labor-intensive fabric reserved for the wealthy, was often used as the backdrop for these shimmering designs. While Indian textiles would feature small, iridescent beetle wings as accents in larger designs, Western fashions favored whole beetle wings, leading to dense, opulent patterns.
By the end of the 19th century, beetle-wing embroidery had become a hallmark of Western fashion, often incorporated into garments such as ball gowns or other formal attire. The example in our collection is likely a reflection of this trend, showing how these exotic textiles were prized for their beauty and rarity.
We’d like to extend a heartfelt thank you to Jun for their dedicated research and for bringing this fascinating piece of history to life. Without volunteers like Jun, we wouldn’t be able to uncover and share these rich stories in our collection.
Research and story by volunteer Jun. Blogpost by Karen Griffiths, (Volunteers Program Officer)