Can a handbag define an era? I say yes! The Dior Saddle Bag (Object No. 2001/37/1-3/1) from the Powerhouse Collection, researched by Collections Research Volunteer Isabella, is a perfect example.
The Dior Saddle Bag, designed by John Galliano in 1999 for the Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2000 ready-to-wear collection, is one of the most recognisable handbags in modern fashion history. The bag features a dark denim body shaped like a horse’s saddle, accented with yellow stitching and tan leather piping. A short tan leather strap with gold ‘CD’ hardware and a hanging gold ‘D’ charm resembling a stirrup complete the design.
First launched in 1999, the Dior Saddle Bag marked a turning point for the house under John Galliano, who served as Creative Director from 1996 to 2011. The bag instantly became the defining ‘It bag’ of the early 2000s and remains one of Galliano’s most influential designs. Worn by style icons such as Paris Hilton and featured in season three of Sex and the City on Carrie Bradshaw, the Saddle Bag’s popularity skyrocketed, solidifying its status as a cultural and fashion phenomenon. Its success ensured that new versions of the design appeared in Dior collections until 2007, making it an enduring emblem of the era and of Dior’s creative dominance under Galliano’s artistic vision.
Appointed to revitalise Dior in 1996, Galliano transformed the house, steering it away from a conservative image and reimagining it as a hub of theatricality, opulence, and daring sensuality. This bag is one of the first and most iconic Saddle Bag designs, significant both as a reflection of Galliano’s creative genius and as a lasting influence on early 21st-century fashion and popular culture.
Special thanks to Isabella, Collections Research Volunteer, for her thorough research on this stunning bag.
Research and story by volunteer Isabella. Blogpost by Karen Griffiths, (Volunteers Program Officer)